Living in the Moment
Last light over a coastal settlement

A region

Northland and the Bay of Islands

Three hours north of Auckland, and almost nobody goes past Paihia.

The far north is where New Zealand's written history starts and where its subtropical weather ends up. It is also, on a Tuesday in April, close to empty.

Two coasts, and they are nothing like each other. The east is islands, sheltered water and boats. The west is kauri forest, the Hokianga and a harbour bar you would not want to cross.

Cape Reinga is worth the drive if you do it at the right hour. Everyone arrives between eleven and two. We do not.

When to come

November to March
Warm water, long light, and the busiest it gets, which is not very
April to May
The best weather-to-crowd ratio in the country
June to August
Green, wet and dramatic. The forest is at its best
September to October
Kōwhai out, whales moving, and the roads to yourself

Where we stop

  • Matakana
  • Whangārei Falls
  • Paihia and the Bay
  • Waitangi Treaty Grounds
  • Cape Reinga
  • Ninety Mile Beach
  • Hokianga Harbour
  • Waipoua Forest
  • Kauri Museum

Getting around

The Waipoua boardwalk is step-free to the main viewing platform. Cape Reinga is a 900 m sealed path with a gradient both ways. Most of the rest is roadside or short.

Want to see it?

Tell me roughly when and how you like to move, and I will put a route together.

Start the conversation